Review: Bibhu Mohapatra at New York Fashion Week

Posted by: on Sep 17, 2012 | No Comments

There is no doubt that Bibhu Mohapatra’s Ready to Wear 2013 collection is stunning. Designed with the modern woman in mind, Bibhu’s garments are tailored flawlessly and are intricately detailed, whilst appearing in an array of colours. So who could have ever imagined that a tiny insect was the muse behind this beautiful collection?

It was while he was working as a costume designer for the Cooperstown Opera House in Upstate New York, when Bibhu noticed a luna moth in the midst. Something about this creature fascinated him; the delicacy of its wings, the grace in its flight, the shape of its body. Bibhu likens the moth’s process of metamorphosis to women’s style, suggesting that our personal style is in a constant process of evolution. Applying this principle to his clothing, Bibhu has created a collection which is sexy, contemporary and quite importantly, wearable. “The juxtaposition of opposites is my design philosophy”, suggests Bibhu, “taking something old world to make something modern.”

Feminine tailoring is at the core of the Ready to Wear collection, including a range of dresses, tops, skirts and trousers tailored to perfection. Bibhu moves away from the traditional hourglass silhouette which is closely linked to classic notions of ideal femininity and embraces quirky peplum shapes. In this collection, they have found their way into skirts as well as tops, adding a delightful twist to a very popular trend.















Attempting to define Bibhu’s amazing prints is not quite possible and would detract from the mystical nature of the clothing. His collection transcends any one definition, as it fuses together multiple concepts: futuristic, geometric and even origami structures can be seen in every garment. These prints form part of the narrative of his show, alongside delicate weaving and laser cut prints.















The Spring/Summer 2013 range consists of rich reds, baby blues, vibrant greens, gothic blacks and classic nude and neutral tones, designed to satisfy the modern women. Fine mesh, netting and chiffons imitate the delicacy of the luna moth, and quite appropriately appear in the form of evening gowns. After all, the night isn’t just a time for the insects to come out and play…














Known for his mystical powers of embellishment, Bibhu does not fail to deliver some jaw dropping pieces in his 2013 collection. While critics have suggested that some of his dresses appear ‘overworked’, I firmly believe they have overlooked the enormous amount of work gone into embellishing the pieces, and importantly, the quality of work that has been produced. The finishing on each garment is immaculate, allowing the symmetry of the patterns to stand out; it’s this attention to detail that makes every piece fresh, sophisticated and edgy.













Not only has Bibhu managed to wow his audiences, he has created a collection that can be worn by any woman. Most importantly, his collection is highly versatile: each garment can be worn as Bibhu has shown us on the catwalks, or alternatively, each piece can be worn with other items within your wardrobe.
Next season is already looking very promising and I cannot wait to see what Bibhu produces next!

Simran Bhogal